Tuesday, March 30, 2010

Houston Press’ Top 10 Restaurants in the Heights

The Houston Press recently blogged about their Top 10 Restaurants in the Heights, and the comments quickly deteriorated into a discussion about how they were a bit too lenient in their definition of the Heights. Ok, so maybe the title should have been “Heights Area Restaurants.” Me, I’m less interested in debating official borders. The topic nobody seems to be discussing: how awesome is the restaurant scene in the Heights? We’re smokin’ hot, baby. People from around Houston are actually coming here. We’re the Brooklyn of Houston!

Lists like these are silly, but I think they’re fun. So to keep the conversation going, here’s MY list of the top restaurants in the Heights. I really enjoyed Ruthie’s list, and I think posts like these really get people talking. I just wish people would talk about something other than geographical boundaries.

I’ve expanded my list to 16 because I couldn’t quickly trim it down to ten. Hey, it’s my blog. I get to make my own rules. What did I miss/get wrong?

16. Shade
Shade brings up the rear of my list. I’ve always loved this place, but recently I’ve noticed a few slips. The duck main I loved last year is now missing the awesome duck cracklings, a glass of wine we ordered a few weeks ago was cooked, and the menu hasn’t changed in a year. Shade, I love you, but you’re on notice: I haven’t been to Branchwater Tavern yet.

15. Christian’s Tailgate
Even though the space now has a dozen taps behind a new dark wood bar, the burgers are still huge and the bathrooms are still disgusting. The fries are terrible, but the burger (with pickled jalapenos) is epic. And a bargain.

14. Vietnam
Sure it’s not the most authentic or creatively named Vietnamese restaurant in town, but it’s the only one in the neighborhood and it’s pretty damn good. I always get the Bo Luc Loc, black pepper scallops, and string beans. Bring a cheap bottle of wine.

13. Taqueria Tacambaro
Taqueria Tambaro is a taco truck located (most of the time) at the southeast corner of the farmer’s market at Caninos on Airline. Famous for their mollejas (sweetbread) tacos, I think they’re even better as a gordita. Don’t be scared, it’s cleaner than a hot dog.

12. Taqueria Laredo on Cavalcade
There’s nothing wrong with the Patton location that’s 400 yards south, but I like this location better. Here’s the drill: wait in the line that snakes through the long dining room, pick your fillings from the steam table, and then grab a table. Why it’s on the list: excellent flour tortillas and my favorite breakfast tacos in Houston.

11. Teotihuacan
The hard to pronounce pink place has awesome corn tortillas, cheap breakfast, and solid parrilladas. Steer too far from those and you’re asking for trouble. While the patio always calls to me, the service is spotty, you can’t hear yourself think, and you really only have a view of the parking lot. Skip the patio and grab a tattered booth inside.

10. Rainbow Lodge
The jury is still out whether this is the four star restaurant of ex-chef Randy Rucker, or the frumpy place where they serve Rudolph four ways and a weak duck gumbo. The meal I had before Rucker’s departure was ambitious, so it deserves a spot on this list until proven otherwise.

9. Stanton’s City Bites
If you prefer thin burgers, Stanton’s burgers are not for you. My favorite (the Truck Stop) is the most ridiculous: a large ½ pound cheeseburger with a single thick onion ring.

8. Fratelli’s
I must have passed this place a hundred times before deciding to give it a try. Large northern Italian menu; the best reminds me of Simposio before they moved. Half of the entrees feature unexciting boneless skinless chicken breasts and the wine list needs updating, but there are gems on the menu. Try the decent pizzas and be sure to order the fantastic gnocchi appetizer.

7. Asia Market
I prefer Vieng Thai on Long Point, but my wife prefers Asia Market. We’re lucky to have both nearby. Asia Market is a hoot (buy your lotto tickets while you wait!), and the food doesn’t pull any punches.

6. Catalan
Blasphemy! I know this place deserves to be higher. I love the pork belly and wine program, but I just hate the room. Admittedly, it’s been a while since I’ve dined there, so perhaps it’s time for a revisit.

5. Catalina Coffee
I drink a cup of espresso every morning, so to me, coffee is food. And Catalina has the best coffee around. The place is no frills, but the coffee is serious. If you’re a Starbucks drinker and haven’t tried Catalina, you owe it to yourself to see how a proper coffee tastes (or not, because you’ll be ruined forever).

4. Beaver’s
The past few times the barbecue has been sub-par, but the rest of the menu is STILL improving. This is where I take people from out of town to show them a bit of Houston. Hell, I even took my vegetarian sister here. Great cocktails, and don’t skip the special.

3. Barbecue Inn
Barbecue Inn is a blast from the past, with awesome fried chicken, fried shrimp, and a mean CFS. In other words, everything fried here is awesome. Has anyone actually had the barbecue? Let me know.

2. Stella Sola
I’m in love with Stella Sola, from the well thought out cocktails in the bar, to the meat-centric mains and specials. The wine list—with its fair markup ala REEF and Catalan—is enough for Stella Sola to make any best of list. Too often, Italian food in this country falls into the Olive Garden template. Stella Sola nails the ethos of true Italian cuisine (simple, but fresh high quality ingredients).

1. Plinio Sandalio’s Dessert Tasting at Textile
This one was a no-brainer for me, but it’s probably a curious choice. How do I reward dessert at a restaurant number one? Simple: it’s A-MAAAAA-ZING. To dismiss this and say “it’s just dessert” is to miss the point. A year ago, my wife and I sat at Textile’s uber-tiny bar (seats 2!) for Plinio’s 8 course dessert tasting and were treated to one mind-blowing dish after another. Bacon ice cream, deconstructed strawberry shortcake, sweet potato beignets… each course more outrageous than the previous.

Lemon Sorbet w/ Shortbread | Photo: melanie campbell-tello | flickr

Plinio’s creations challenge your comfort zone; he’s a master at mixing sweet and savory, and his dishes are as beautiful to look at as they are to taste (I think at the time I said the strawberry shortcake looked like a Miró painting). In Houston, this is about as close as we’ll get to the Top Chef experience.


  1. Hi Theo,

    Stopped into RL a couple nights ago. The housemade charcuterie was impressive. Signs there's still life...


  2. Chilosos is perfect Heights and open on Sunday as a bonus. Rainbow Lodge and Vietnam are both unfortunately bad, and Branchwater, if that is the Heights, is going to top Shade. Though Shade should get some credit for being here first. Teotihuacan might be the most consistently good Mexican food in the city. If we can claim the south side of I-10, I think we should also get the north side of 610 and the Petrol Station. Pinks is way better than the pizza places in most neighborhoods.

    Places that I would really like to be better: 11th St, Dry Creek, Andy's.

    Honorable mention to that bakery/diner across from the Fiesta on Quitman and the bakery/diner just south of 20th on Main.

    Dishonorable mention for La Carreta. Its the worst.

  3. Hahaha -- I like how Plinio's dessert tasting has achieved restaurant status! Which reminds me... Have you been to Textile since Ryan H started? Nice list!!

  4. I'm rooting for Beaver's! I'm quite biased because I love barbecues, but hey, they really have good barbecue recipes there!

  5. I believe Puebla Bakery on Main deserves a mention, but other than that, it's a list I completely agree with.

    Petrol Station is another I agree with, the Rancor burger is pretty awesome.

    Your point about Beaver's is a good one. I too have noticed that some of the BBQ of late has been sub-par and definitely not what I remember having a few months ago.

    Great write-up though!

  6. the heights is an overpriced dump full of minorities who bleed our fair city dry

  7. Wow, my first Houston Press-style inappropriate blog post comment. I have truly arrived.

  8. Pretty good list until you get to Cata-freaking-lina at No. 5??? Above Catalan, which is probably one of the top 2 or 3 restaurants in the city? Put down the crack pipe.

  9. Great list Theo. I would add Lola and DaCapo as solid Heights restaurants. I will have to try Fratelli's. I also agree I think Shade is slipping. Went there Friday night after not being there a year. My husbands salmon was pretty dry and the lentils were not fully cooked. Everything else was excellent though.

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  11. It seems like you love going places to eat, but do you have healthy recipes of your own that you make? If you do, you should send them into this contest I know of that’s making its way around the country, the Aetna Healthy Food Fight. It’s coming to San Antonio on October 2-3 and Houston on October 9-10! I noticed your recipe and thought you would be interested. You could get great exposure for your recipes and meet celebrity cooks (Bobby Flay, Sunny Anderson, Sara Moulton, or Cat Cora). All you have to do is go to healthyfoodfight.com to submit one of your healthy recipes. Deadline to sign up for San Antonio is September 15th and Houston is September 22nd so hurry! Good luck if you decide to enter, and if not, keep posting! :)

  12. Aetna has been spamming food blogs to promote this event- I am responding to each one in memory of my friend's fingers, which she lost due to Aetna denying her claims repeatedly. (Both of us are Houstonians as well) Saving money by spamming their promotions is one thing. Denying writers and teachers and mothers their digits and appendages is another...

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  15. Great list! Worth checking out. The key to any good eating establishment is good food, good service and quality restaurant supply Houston equipment.