A Call for Entries: Notable Heights Burgers

I will gladly pay you Tuesday for a hamburger today.
-Wimpy

I was in Las Vegas for a conference last week and had dinner one night at Burger Bar at the Mandalay Bay Casino. For those not familiar, Burger Bar serves a large variety of burgers, many obscenely expensive (there is a Kobe burger with foie gras on the menu for $60; only in Vegas!). Burger Bar is a favorite of mine for its beer selection; however, the burgers are pretty good. We ordered the American Classic (cheese and bacon), medium please. On the plus side, the burger was cooked a perfect medium, with a pink center. On the minus side, the fries were pretty terrible and there was no mayo on the bun or in the condiment trays on the bar, although they did eventually bring some when we asked.

Here in Houston, we are both blessed and cursed on the burger front. Blessed, because we have a ton of quality burger shops who understand how we like it. "All the way" means what we all expect. Cursed, because the number of places that will cook a burger to order is the rare exception rather than the rule (no pun intended).

A Hamburger Today has come up with a much more extensive categorization for burger styles, but for simplicity sake, I've come up with two categories: thin and thick. Note to all burger shops, if you serve a big thick burger and either refuse or just plain fail to serve it under well done, you're really screwing up.

I also judge a burger place by its container (the bun, extra points for a slight griddle crunch) and its fries. The french fried potato... why is it so hard to get a good burger AND fries? Consider this list: Lankford, Christians, and Hubcap. All serve crappy fries. Why? Why?!?!

I know there are some great burgers out there in the Heights. What are your favorites? Pros and cons? There are quite a few great burger spots just north of 610, so I'm adding that area to the discussion, but let's keep it somewhat close (note the gradient).

I'll start. Stanton's. Pros: Great hand formed burger, bun, and condiments. One of Houston's best. Cons: was cooked past requested medium rare and the fries are awful.

Fearless Critic Houston Restaurant Guide 2010

The newest edition of the Fearless Critic Houston Restaurant Guide is now available for purchase. The new edition is the first to employ a Council, a group of local foodies and bloggers who assist with rating and reviewing all the restaurants this wonderful city has to offer. In full disclosure, I was a participating council member. Shhh…

New Heights restaurants include Carter & Cooley, Chicago Italian Beef, Chilosos Taco House, Jazzie Café, Pink’s Pizza, Taquería Tacambaro, Vietnam Restaurant, and others that are oh so close to The Heights.

Available at your local bookstore, or from Amazon.com for only $10.85. Cheaper than the chalupas at El Tiempo, and less calories too!

Beaver's: A Love Story

When Beaver’s opened two years ago, I must admit that I was less than impressed. I found the quasi-Carolina barbecue style to be frustratingly inconsistent, expensive, and downright un-Texan with their paltry portion sizes. I know several Carolina apologists who praise the power of the pig and dismiss brisket and everything cow-related as not “real” barbecue. Fine. I can accept regional differences with barbecue, but if you’re going to come into Texas touting a different style, you better bring your A game. Unfortunately, the barbecue didn’t live up to Texas standards. I prefer my ribs to have some chew to them, as opposed to the obviously boiled and crumbly fall-apart versions served at most family friendly chains (you know who I’m talking about). The ribs at Beaver’s had the same mealy texture, although admittedly the smoke flavor was always pretty good. My favorite item on the menu was the burger, but it was hard for me to get really excited. Your best item is a burger? Really?

Things started to change once J.J. took control of the kitchen. The sweet potato fries and cheese dip were immediately dumped, and for good reason. Lunchtime specials (called a Beaver Box) started to include some stellar dishes, including Wednesday’s remarkable fried chicken. All Beaver Boxes are served with a salad to start and a truly extraordinary slice of pecan pie (not too sweet); all together, it’s one of Houston’s best bargains at $12. Sandwiches got a makeover as well. A ho-hum sounding pit boss chickwich gets transformed into awe-inspiring man food: shredded and sauced chicken is topped with a fried egg, onion strings and slaw, all held together with a steak knife (no toothpick would be able to do the job).

The most recent menu additions have elevated Beaver’s to another level. JJ’s epic CFNYS is my new favorite menu item: served stacked on a bed of bitter greens and sweet potato puree, this CFS does Texas proud. The concept is pure genius: take a previously highfalutin cut of cow (avec New York marketing credentials) and chicken fry its ass. Some of my friends have nitpicked over the greens or the vertical presentation, but I think it’s perfect the way it is. Beaver’s is no holds barred Texas food, and the CFS is probably the best example of this philosophy. And that barbecue I was bashing before? It’s better, too. The sampler includes some pretty stellar sausage, pork ribs and brisket that even a Texas barbecue fan could appreciate. Best of all are the beef ribs, which have a fantastic smoke flavor and great texture.

Bacon and Egg Biscuit, available for brunch. Photo courtesy of Houston Foodie (used with permission; view blog)

A week and half ago, my wife and I found ourselves at Beaver’s for the end of the UT/Tech game. To my left sat three UT fans, sipping Bud Lights. To my right sat two couples drinking British brews, eating dinner and getting ready for a night out on Washington. My wife and I shared an order of wings and two cocktails.

“What’s THAT?” said the UT fan to my left, pointing out my Sazerac, with a lemon twist garnish.

“A Sazerac! It’s a classic cocktail from New Orleans.” I replied.

“Oh…. Cool!” he said, and turned to watch the end of the game.

Sidecar and Sazerac

The fact that three completely different groups of people can get their food and drink on and be totally at ease is why I love Beaver’s. There may be better restaurants in Houston, but Beaver’s is my favorite.

Details
2310 Decatur Street
713.864.2328

Booze Find: Wild Turkey Rye

I love the cocktail program they have at Anvil, but rarely get a chance to drop by (especially during the week). Rye whiskey is one of the most significant spirits in classic cocktails, and the Fiesta Liquor on Shepherd and 610 has it for $17.99. For comparison, Specs lists the Wild Turkey Rye for $23.96.

I've also made my own Sazeracs with Old Overholt and Rittenhouse 80, and the Wild Turkey is definitely the superior rye for mixing. Great price and super convenient, although you'll probably have to go elsewhere for the Peychaud's bitters.

Sweet Temptation

On a road known more its collection of famous Mexican restaurants (Airline Drive, in the Eastern section of the Heights) sits Sweet Temptation. The name itself creates even more confusion, perhaps signaling that this concept wasn’t fully thought out.

The best dishes are the bruschetta and the restaurant's version of a spaghetti carbonara. The bruschetta is simply prepared with fresh tomatoes and herbs and served on a fairly generic slice of store bought Italian/French bread. The carbonara is served with an egg yolk inside of a hollowed out egg shell. The best prepared dish was the sauteed chicken breast, which was pounded thin, coated, skillet fried and still juicy. The fact that I was most excited by a fairly generic chicken breast entree should tell you all you need to know about Sweet Temptation.

Misses included most of the meat entrees, which are all served with the same unimaginative duo of mashed potatoes and steamed vegetables. The biggest miss was the pork chops, which were overcooked to a shoe leather texture. Desserts include the standard tiramisu, creme brulee and cheesecake.

My dream is for the Heights to land a truly authentic Italian eatery. A few weeks ago I sat in Dolce Vita and split two starters and the best pizza I've had outside of New York City. A simple shaved brussel sprouts starter—served cold and tossed with a slight hint of acid—was one of the best dishes I've had this year. The fact that we got out for less than what we spent at Sweet Temptation is both amazing and depressing at the same time.

Perhaps I'm being too harsh. Collina's on 19th has been serving even worse fare for several years and still has a line out the door most days of the week. Sweet Temptation has the same BYOB policy, so I would expect it to be a hit as well (both recent visits the room sat mostly empty).

Sweet Temptation should be defined as an Italian American restaurant. Italian American is never going to be Dolce Vita, nor does it need to be. I would be happy if Sweet Temptation could equal the highs of Patronella's, which is located just a few miles south. Sadly, Sweet Temptation is more in the style of Birraporetti's. You'd be better off just opening a jar of Prego.

Details
1504 Airline Drive
Houston, TX 77009

An open letter to HEB

Dear HEB,

Congratulations on the opening of your new Buffalo Market (on Buffalo Speedway and Bissonnet). From what I’ve read over the last few weeks, your new store looks mighty impressive. Your cheese and wine selection look just as extraordinary as Central Market’s selection. I’m sure the residents are quite pleased that they will no longer have to drive the extra two and half minutes it would have taken to get to Central Market.

HEB's grand new store | Source: Swamplot

Forgive me if that sounds sarcastic. I currently reside in the Heights area, an area you have ignored for far too long. Presently, you have one store in the area, an HEB Pantry Foods that has seemingly been there since the dawn of time. The floors are grimy and the entire place has an odor of meat that is past its prime. The selection is limited to the bare essentials, which I guess is the concept of the Pantry Foods line.

Orange-colored "vine ripe" tomatoes (lower right) and overripe/spoiled tomatoes (upper left)

Grocery shopping in the Heights is getting better, but still needs some help. Fiesta on Shepherd is a great place to shop for every cut of meat imaginable, but lacks the quality in upper end cuts of meats and mainstream produce selections. Kroger has been doing a fairly poor job of servicing the area (the store on 20th is pathetic), but is at least attempting to improve the situation by revamping the tired store on 11th and Shepherd.

I know you can do much better. Your Bunker Hill location is one of my favorite places to shop. Prices seem fair, the store is clean, the selection is top notch, and you don’t need one of those annoying shopper cards in order to get the sale price. Quite frankly, I’m puzzled why a decision was made to open a store in the saturated 59 corridor, while other areas are grossly under-represented.

The typically empty membership only Restaurant Depot, next door to HEB Pantry: What could have been a perfect new HEB

Thank you.

Carter & Cooley: Best BLT and Other Outlandish Claims

Carter & Cooley is located in a historical building right in the middle of historic 19th Street. The entire operation oozes history, with framed black and white photographs of Houston’s past lining the walls. High ceilings and cute antique furnishings round out the attractive space.

Bear with me for one small tangent. A few weeks ago, Cameron Diaz was on Jimmy Fallon and contributed to a ridiculous segment where they attempted to break made-up records. Ms. Diaz was placed in a hammock. Late Night Show staff then placed about 50 bunnies on top of her in an attempt to break the record for "most bunnies snuggled" record. Predictably, this made-up record was broken and hilarity ensued. Or something like that.

Snuggling Bunnies

Carter & Cooley's BLT is advertised as the best in town and we find this claim to be bit preposterous considering the dearth of quality delis in the city. Nevertheless, it’s hard to argue with their conclusion. For a few cents more, you can upgrade your sandwich to BALT status (with avocado). Hardly a stretch given Houston’s fascination with throwing avocados on pretty much everything, but the resulting sandwich somehow works. Keep in mind that they do not toast their bread by default, so all BLT purists would be wise to remember to ask.

B.A.L.T.

Other decent sandwiches include the reuben, which has a bit too much Russian dressing. The hot pastrami sandwich was the clunker of the group as it was obviously just reheated pre-sliced pastrami (hardly a flattering impression of the legendary New York delicatessens). Prices are also a bit on the high side. Three sandwiches with drinks will set you back $30, and one of those was a peanut butter and jelly sandwich (a damn fine one I should add). I've heard that the hot pastrami at Katz's in NYC is close to $15, but that monster can feed two people. And let's be honest, that's a work of culinary art.